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The 3D printer buying guide

Spec sheets are full of numbers that sound important and mostly aren't. This guide explains the ones that matter, and the ones you can safely ignore.

Step 1: FDM or resin?

FDM melts plastic filament through a nozzle. It is clean, versatile and best for functional parts and bigger objects. Resin (MSLA) cures liquid resin with a masked UV screen; it's far more detailed but messy and chemical. Most people should start with FDM; miniature painters with resin. See resin for beginners.

Step 2: open or enclosed?

Open printers are cheaper and fine for PLA and PETG. Enclosed printers are needed for ABS, ASA and other warp-prone materials. Heated chambers go further for engineering materials. Details in the best enclosed printers.

Step 3: how big?

Build volumeTypical modelsSuits
~180 mm cubeA1 miniSmall desks, toys, gadgets
~256 mm cubeA1, P1S, P2SMost people
300–350 mmH2D, K2 PlusHelmets, armor, large parts

Step 4: one color or many?

Multicolor units (AMS, CFS, MMU3) swap filaments automatically. They add cost, purge waste and print time, but also unlock multi-material prints. See the best multicolor printers.

Specs that matter (and ones that don't)

  • Matters: automatic calibration, build volume, enclosure, max nozzle temperature (for materials), extruder type, ecosystem and parts availability.
  • Matters less: top speed headlines, "AI" labels on cameras, resolution "K" numbers on resin printers (compare pixel size in µm instead).

Glossary

  • Bed-slinger: printer whose bed moves on the Y axis.
  • CoreXY: kinematics where two motors move the toolhead in X and Y together.
  • Hotend / nozzle: the part that melts and extrudes filament; 0.4 mm is the standard nozzle.
  • Direct drive: extruder mounted on the toolhead; better for flexible filament.
  • Z-offset: the gap between the nozzle and bed at the first layer.
  • Pressure advance / flow calibration: compensation for pressure in the nozzle, for crisper corners.
  • Input shaping / resonance calibration: cancels vibrations to allow higher speeds without ringing.
  • Purge / flush: filament wasted when changing colors.
  • MSLA: masked stereolithography, the common LCD resin technology.
  • Tilt release: resin vat tilts to peel each layer gently.
  • FEP / release film: the transparent film at the bottom of a resin vat.

Frequently asked questions

Does top speed matter on a 3D printer?

Less than marketing suggests. Real print time depends on acceleration, the hotend's maximum flow rate, cooling and the material. A printer that quotes 600 mm/s rarely sustains it on real parts.

What is the difference between CoreXY and a bed-slinger?

On a bed-slinger the bed moves back and forth (Y axis), which is simple and affordable but moves the print itself. On CoreXY, the toolhead moves in X and Y and the bed only moves down, which suits fast and tall prints and fits neatly in an enclosure.

Should I buy a used 3D printer?

It can be good value for well-supported models with available parts. Check the hotend, belts, bed surface and firmware support, and prefer brands with strong spare-parts availability.